Reference Guide - Breguet Classique Ref. 3130
When you think of Breguet, the reference 3130 likely comes to mind. It stands apart—instantly recognizable and impossible to mistake for anything else. Most watches from the 19th century followed traditional design codes, but Breguet consistently defied convention.
While many of Breguet’s modern creations were inspired by their own historic pocket watches, adapting those centuries-old designs into wristwatches during the 1970s and 1980s was no small feat. The reference 3130, introduced in the early 1980s, was the brainchild of Daniel Roth. It drew direct inspiration from the iconic Breguet pocket watch No. 5.
There are two key points worth highlighting here. First, the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet, whose design legacy continues to feel striking, relevant, and ahead of its time even today. Second, the boldness of Daniel Roth in translating a classic pocket watch aesthetic into a contemporary wristwatch—an audacious move that paid off brilliantly.
"A design born nearly 250 years ago—yet it still feels bold, relevant, and astonishingly ahead of its time."
The reference 3130 showcases three elegant complications: a date display, a power reserve indicator, and a moon phase. The power reserve sits subtly between the 10 and 11 o’clock positions, while the moon phase is placed asymmetrically between 1 and 2 o’clock. The date is neatly tucked into the 6 o’clock position, offering a balanced and harmonious layout.
In true Breguet fashion, the dial features exquisite engine-turned guilloché, with three distinct patterns—one on the main dial, another on the PR subdial, and a third shared by the date and moon phase sub dials. The blued steel Breguet hands not only enhance the classical aesthetic but also provide superb legibility.
The watch is housed in a beautifully proportioned 36mm coin-edged case, complete with hand-welded, polished lugs and secured by traditional screwed-in spring bars—a testament to the maison’s dedication to craftsmanship and detail.
This asymmetrical design captured the hearts of collectors worldwide and laid the foundation for many subsequent Breguet models. Even today, modern references continue to draw heavy inspiration from this iconic piece. In fact, the reference 3130 played a pivotal role in revitalizing Breguet's fortunes—catapulting the brand’s revenue and establishing it as a commercially successful powerhouse during the 1980s.
Powering this beautiful watch is the Caliber 502.DR, developed by Daniel Roth using the Frédéric Piguet 71 as its base movement. The result is an exceptionally thin and elegant caliber. The off-centered rotor is especially beautiful in the 3137, where it is intricately decorated and hand engraved.
A Early Breguet Ref. 3130, Tahoma Watches
Cal 502.DR in a ref 3137
Collecting Nuances!
3130 vs 3135 vs 3137
The 3130 reference can be seen with both open and closed case backs. However the 3137 was only available with open case backs. Until the late 80s/early 90s, there was no 3137 reference in Breguet’s catalog.
Standard closed case backs were sold under the reference 3130, while open case backs were referred to as 3130 ‘avec fond transparent’ (with transparent case back). Later, Breguet began to introduce 3137 reference numbers during the Investcorp era. However, Breguet didn’t start inscribing reference numbers on the case backs until the late 90s.
Since there were transitions from 3130 to 3137 reference, dealers and even Breguet used them interchangeably when filling out warranty cards, marketing, etc. Please read our Breguet Collectors Guide article for in depth information.
Both the 3130 and 3137 with display casebacks, reveal movements that are fully decorated and intricately hand-engraved. The rotor is hand-skeletonized — usually bearing a ‘B’ logo — and finished with the same level of detail. The display caseback is truly a pleasure to admire.
The reference 3135 is the openworked evolution of the 3130, an extraordinary iteration that elevates an already iconic design. It features a meticulously open worked dial with intricate hand engraving, while the movement side receives the same level of artisanal attention, much like the ref. 3137. Visible through an open caseback, the hand-engraved movement transforms the watch into a true showcase of Breguet’s craftsmanship.
3130, closed caseback.
3130 ‘avec fond transparent’ ( display case back )
3137 display case back.
3135 Dial side, open worked and engraved, WBLDN
3135 Rear, movement fully engraved, WBLDN
What is PRE-A?
We have already covered this topic extensively on our other Breguet Collectors Guide article but let’s touch on this briefly here. "PRE-A," also known as "PRE-SERIES" or "PRE-1987," refers to watches produced before Breguet introduced serial numbers ending in letters—A, B, C, D, and so on—that indicated a chronological sequence.
So why does this period hold such significance? The introduction of these alphabetic serial numbers came in the late '80s, around 1987/88, right after Breguet was sold to Investcorp and Daniel Roth departed from the brand. Therefore, "PRE-A" watches were made during Roth's time at Breguet, making them not only historically significant but also highly collectible and desirable among enthusiasts.
Pre-A series 3130, WBLDN
B series, Keystone watches
Dial variations
MK1 Dial - *Earliest 1983 ~ early 90s
MK 1 Dial
Key identifiable features include the presence of double concentric rings around the date window at 6 o’clock.
The power reserve indicator is marked in 10-hour increments, up to a total of 50 hours.
The fonts have a vintage feel, featuring subtle serifs and open 6s and 9s.
The moon phase is plain, with no engraved face on the moon.
A tiny “Swiss” signature can be found just below the dot at 6 o’clock.
No Secret Signature
Generally seen in examples ranging from the pre-A series through to the E-series.
MK 2 Dial - Early 90s ~ Mid 90s
MK 2 Dial
No concentric rings around the date window at 6 o’clock, allowing for slightly bigger date numbers.
The power reserve indicator is marked in 15-hour increments, up to a total of 45 hours.
The fonts still have a vintage feel, featuring subtle serifs and open 6s and 9s.
The moon phase is plain, with no engraved face on the moon.
‘Swiss’ signature at 6 o clock, no dot present like MK1 dial.
No Secret Signature
Generally seen in E, F, G Series
MK 3 Dial - Mid 90s ~ Early 00s
MK3 Dial
No concentric rings around the date window at 6 o’clock.
The power reserve indicator is marked in 15-hour increments up to a total of 45 hours, accompanied by a small triangle indicator at the start of the power reserve.
Round Non Serif fonts with closed 6, 9s
Moon phase with engraved face specifically from ‘I’ series
‘SWISS GUILLOCHE MAIN’ signature at 6 o clock, a major change from the earlier variants.
Secret signature present between the 11 and 12 o’clock, and between the 12 and 1 o’clock indices.
Generally seen in broad range Starting H, I series sometimes later as well.
MK 2.5 Dial - Transition from MK 2 ~ MK3
MK 2.5 Transitional dial, Tahoma Watches
Has the same characteristics of the MK 3 dial with only differences being
Open 6, 9s
Absence of the ‘arrow’ at the 0 of the PR
No secret Signature.
Extremely rare
We have only seen one example so far on the market and we were lucky to get our hands on that one.
MK 4 Dial - Early 00s ~ Mid 00s
MK4 Dial
No concentric rings around the date window at 6 o’clock.
The power reserve indicator is marked in 15-hour increments up to a total of 45 hours, accompanied by a small triangle indicator at the start of the power reserve.
Tall Serif fonts for the numbers
Moon phase with engraved face
‘SWISS GUILLOCHE MAIN’ signature at 6 o clock.
Secret signature present between the 11 and 12 o’clock, and between the 12 and 1 o’clock indices.
Generally seen in broad range Starting from ‘I’ series and later. ( MK 4 AND 5 were used interchangeably between the series)
MK 5 Dial - Late 00s
MK5 Dial
No concentric rings around the date window at 6 o’clock.
The power reserve indicator is marked in 15-hour increments up to a total of 45 hours, accompanied by a small triangle indicator at the start of the power reserve.
Less taller, Serif fonts for the numbers than MK4
Moon phase with engraved face
‘SWISS GUILLOCHE MAIN’ signature at 6 o clock which is now slightly wider in width than MK4
Secret signature present between the 11 and 12 o’clock, and between the 12 and 1 o’clock indices.
Case, Hands, crown variations
Case back styles
Smooth case back, seen on earliest PRE-A variants.
Only engraving pattern and serial, often seen on later pre A series.
Engraving pattern, ‘AUTOMATIC’ and serial inscription.
Engraving pattern, ‘AUTOMATIC’, reference and serial inscriptions. Seen in rather modern variants.
Display caseback no reference inscription. Seen on early 3130 avec fond / 3137 variants
Display caseback with reference inscription. Seen in later variants
Crown Variations
No logo flat crown, seen on earliest.
Cabochon crown, most common across all variants.
‘B’ Logo crown, seen on modern variants.
Hands
We’ve observed only a couple variants - one featuring short, stubby hands, and the other with longer, more slender hands. Although the differences are subtle, they’re noticeable upon close inspection. See the pictures below for comparison.
Short Stubby hands across all dials, Davidoff Brothers
Tall, slender hands
Bracelet variations
The three variants of the 3130 are shown below: the standard strap, the integrated bracelet, and the Wellendorf bracelet versions.
Regular Strap variant.
Integrated Chain mail bracelet
Detachable Wellendorf bracelet.
The chain mail and Wellendorf bracelets are among the most comfortable to wear. “Silky” is the perfect word to describe their feel. Produced in limited numbers, these bracelets are relatively rare and highly sought after by collectors.
Closing thoughts
As collectors, we are fortunate to have access to such an important and beautiful piece with relative ease today. However, it's crucial to understand the nuances and make informed decisions about what aspects matter most to us as individuals.
The reference 3130 is a must-have for any serious neo-vintage enthusiast—an essential addition to a thoughtful collection.
Currently, scholarship surrounding Breguet remains relatively limited, and our goal is to contribute meaningfully by sharing the knowledge we’ve gathered. Articles like this are only possible thanks to the generosity of fellow collectors and enthusiasts who continue to share their insights.
Get in Touch
If you have any questions, would like to contribute, or simply wish to connect and share information, we’d love to hear from you. Feel free to reach out!
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Credits
Huge thanks to many including Jaehoon (@anhmania), Ryan Goddu (@watchtodotoday), @watchbrotherslondon, @meticulist, @andre, @phillipswatches, @apexluxuryuk, @alfredoparamico, Tony Traina ( for Inspiration) and many more. Also a lot of information was obtained from books, auction catalogs and forums.